Heirloom garments are the latest buzzword in fashion.
By Vasundhara Sanger
Posted on 21/02/2023
The term “fashion heirloom” conjures imagery of a seamstress of yore, needle in hand and fingers protected by a thimble, patiently weaving magic with threads and stitches to create exquisite garments for royalty. Her fingers dance with graceful ease on a soft cloth and intricate laces as she works with quiet grace. This humble servant of fashion and style crafts a work of art that will stand the test of time — her piece of creation will never fail. It is handed down to generations as an heirloom that connects the present with the past, keeping the family’s heritage story alive.
Genesis
Heirloom sewing is one of the oldest types of needlework. It all started in the late 1800s with French nuns hand-stitching lace onto delicate fabric for rulers and noble families. Because the work was so beautiful, families saved and passed the garments down from generation to generation.
Down the memory lane
Heirloom clothing records ancestry, strengthens family and cultural ties and recalls special events. In India, brides often wear either their mother’s or grandmother’s saree, ghagra/lehenga and odhani/chunari on their wedding day. Even today, in places like Rajasthan, specialised tailors refurbish poshak (lehenga-kanchli-kurti or traditional tunic worn by Rajasthani women) stitched in age-old fabrics for young women who ditch designer wear to don a piece of their family’s history. Some people embrace the modern look by upcycling or incorporating old garments into trendy designer outfits. Master artisans use restoration techniques to transfer antique embroideries and borders from old to new fabrics.
Several high-profile celebrity weddings in recent years have upheld this trend. The cheerful image of Reliance Industry’s Isha Ambani, dressed in an elegant ghagra set with her mother’s wedding saree thrown over her shoulders in a double-dupatta style, was quite striking. Bollywood actor Kareena Kapoor Khan reverses the clock by wearing her mother-in-law’s heirloom sharara for (her) nuptials. It was the same with actress Yami Gautam, who married in her mother’s 33-year-old bridal saree. When she said, “I do” at her white wedding, international actress Priyanka Chopra paid tribute to her mother-in-law’s American heritage. The star’s dramatic bridal veil had a piece from her mother-in-law’s wedding dress stitched to it. Not only the Indian brides but in England, Princess Beatrice impressed in a vintage couture gown from her grandmother, the Queen’s closet.
Why did these ladies choose slow fashion by dressing in heirlooms?
It is simply due to the ageless nature and emotive value that these pieces hold.
Indian heritage
Indian hand-woven fabrics and textiles weave, prints, and craftsmanship are all part of Indian cultural heritage and continue to be preserved for posterity. Notwithstanding the modern fast fashion trend, they are still cherished and worn for special family events and festivals. Like the Parsi gara sarees, the silk and gold Benarasi (UP) and Paithani (Maharashtra) sarees, Kanjivaram sarees (Tamil Nadu), silk Mekhela Chador (Assam) and many more.
Reinforcing culture
The coronavirus pandemic significantly altered people’s outlook towards fashion. As people spent more time with their families and realised the importance of sustainability in environmental protection, the value of owning something passed down through the generations began to be appreciated more. As a result, customers began to drift away from fads and seasonal pieces towards classic clothing with an old-world charm. Besides, choosing heritage clothing drives buyers, particularly women, to build sustainable wardrobes by investing in heirloom-quality clothing that will last for generations.
Box:
How to care for heirloom garments
- Always hand-clean heirloom pieces and store them at room temperature, wrapped in a muslin cloth or paper for covering art or documents like acid-free tissue. If unable to do any of these, engage the services of a professional.
- While wearing them, do not use perfumes/deodorants, oils, creams or moisturisers. Note that perspirations can also harm the heirloom fabrics.
- If not worn for a while, have a professional check it for damage.
- Cleaning brittle fabric may result in damage. However, most damages can be repaired.
- If the cloth is damaged, hire expert darners to repair the fabric.
- Sarees: Do not stack them together. Fold them inside out, avoiding tight folds (or they will tear at folds) and air them at regular intervals. Also, change the folds occasionally so that no lines or creases are formed on the material, which can tear the saree. Use dry neem leaves rather than naphthalene balls, which will discolour any zari work on the fabric. Once a year, put them out in the mild winter sun for a few hours. If stained, wash with cold water. In case of an oil stain, sprinkle talcum powder before rinsing with mild soap and warm water. After wearing them, hang the sarees to dry overnight. To repurpose the sarees, make lehengas and anarkalis or use them to decorate blouses or sleeves. They also make good collectables. You can also frame these fabrics to create an aesthetic piece of vintage art.
